Small Bites for Big Appetites: Il mulino is where you find real Italian Cooking

Restaurant Review of Il Mulino - NY

Il Mulino an Italian restaurant which resides in the upbeat neighborhood of Greenwich Village has its aficionados and critics. Some praise it for its culinary mastery of Italian Cuisine while others feel its overpriced and not worth the hype. So I had to experience it for myself.

Il Mulino was founded by Fernando and Gino Masci in 1981 and is rated by Zagat the number 1 Italian restaurant in NY. Since its humble beginning they have expanded their franchise to several major cities including Miami, Chicago, Tokyo, Washington, D.C., Las Vegas and Atlanta The NY Chef, Michele Mazza comes from Sorento Italy region and changes the menu according to the season. He mentions he looks forward to the time of year when soft-shell crabs and zucchini flowers arrive, and in the winter, he likes to add venison recipes to the menu.

When I entered, I surprised by the quaintness. The restaurant had an intimate setting with very dim lighting. As you enter there is a traditional wooden bar with black trimming. Just behind it is a small group of tables with primly dressed tuxedo waiters bustling around and serving food.

We had made reservations for 10:00pm but we are not seated till 10:30. Nevertheless, customer hospitality was something Il Mulino founders take great pride in because as soon as we were seated the waiters appeared out of thin air bringing a basket delicious breads and rich blocks of cheese. I was told not to fill up as more dishes would come.

Out came the bruschetta which was not just a normal size helping but mounds of delicious bright red diced tomatoes, minced garlic and thin strips of basil covered in oil. It was fresh and packed a punch.

Not to far behind it came some of the most crispy and delicious garlic bread I have.

Then came the fresh burrata mozzarella. A generous helping sat in the center and was some of the softest most creamy cheese as it had arrived fresh from the dairy farm.

Next came the fresh Carpaccio, delicious pieces of thinly sliced tuscan style beef served with arugula, olive oil and lemon served with spicy dijon mustard sauce.

Last came the pepper fried zucchini basted in oil. The zucchini was sweet and cold, something I would have preferred to have warm but none the less delicious.

Then we ordered the entrees. Already quite satiated we chose two dishes.

First was the Costoletta Alla Parmigiana pounded breaded veal chop, served with marinara and topped with imported cheeses. I will admit it was a strong dish but after having all the delicious appetizers I really expected more from this dish. I felt as though all the sauce and cheese masked the flavor of the veal.

The last dish of the night was the Ravioli with Porcini Mushrooms in a white champagne sauce with truffles. The richness of this dish can not be described. I had half a ravioli piece and that was more than enough for my stomach to feel satiated. But while my stomach said no my mind craved more of this delectable dish.

Overall I was very pleased with my visit to Il Mulino. Almost all the dishes lived up to my expectations with a few surpassing them. The freshness of the ingredients allowed for dishes full of rich flavor and texture. The only thing I would be wary of is the extremely expensive entrees. However you get more than your fair share of delicious starters to hold you to one or two entrees.

Unfortunately my stomach was too exhausted to partake in the desserts but I have heard that they do no disappoint.

Service: 4.7 bites
Ambiance 4.4 bites
Starters: 4.8 bites
Entrees: 4.6 bites
Overall: 4.7 bites